Know before you go

How the island works

This is my interpretation of the Island. I am obviously all knowing — if I think it so, so it will be.

Three places

NorthResort Brazil
Jurerê, Canasvieiras, Ingleses — calm water, fat houses, Argentine tourists, beach clubs, packed in summer, bougie.
SouthMost of my pins
Campeche, Rio Tavares, Lagoa — quieter, greener, better surf, better food, better vibes.
CentroThe city
A standard Brazilian city on the west of the island that connects to the mainland via a bridge. Has your standard city stuff like malls, cinema, restaurants.

When to come

Air low to high, 12–30 °C · the tick is 22°

The sweet spot

Sep – Nov

Warm, empty, cheap but still vibes.

  • Sep15–21°Sea 20° bracing · Quiet
  • Oct17–24°Sea 21° bracing · Quiet
  • Nov18–25°Sea 22° swimmable · Filling up

High summer

Dec – Mar

Hot, alive, carnival, party, rammed. Traffic is genuinely bad unless you have a scooter.

  • Dec20–27°Sea 24° warm · Busy
  • Jan22–28°Sea 25° warm · Busy
  • Feb22–29°Sea 26° warm · Busy
  • Mar21–28°Sea 25° warm · Filling up

The sweet spot again

Apr – May

The other half of the good window, and quieter than spring.

  • Apr18–27°Sea 23° swimmable · Quiet
  • May16–23°Sea 21° bracing · Quiet

Winter

Jun – Aug

15–20 °C, windy, quieter, chill. Trails and food are still great; swimming is not.

  • Jun14–21°Sea 20° bracing · Quiet
  • Jul13–20°Sea 19° too cold · Quiet
  • Aug13–21°Sea 19° too cold · Quiet
These are monthly averages, not what any given day does. Summer afternoons regularly push into the mid-30s and winter nights get down to single figures. The sea is fickler still — on the Atlantic side a change in swell can drop it several degrees overnight, even in January.

Getting around

Car or a scooter
Buses exist but the island is 54 km long and services are slow.
Uber and 99
Both work well and are dirt cheap. 99 is usually cheaper.

Practical

Language
Portuguese. English is patchy outside tourist spots. Locals are manezinhos, with a distinctive Azorean accent.
Money
PIX is king; almost everywhere takes it. Cards are widely accepted — always choose credito even if your card is a debito. You don't need cash if you have PIX. Download Liminal Finance to get Pix before you arrive (I made the app so you know it's lit).
Beaches
The Atlantic side has real surf and rip currents. Red flag = rip tide, don't swim here.
Safety
So much safer than Rio and São Paulo, so you can leave stuff on the beach without having someone guard it.
Trails
Start early, take more water than you think.